Container gardening is an option but be forewarned that it takes more work: pots dry out more quickly, the soil gets hotter, and containers do NOT prevent pests.
With respect to the cukes, you may have "borers". Search "cucumber borer". The adult stage of the insect (a flying insect) lays its eggs on the stem of the plant at ground level. You can dust with Sevin dust to prevent egg laying, or wrap nylon hose (like stockings) strips around the stem before the plant start to vine out. So too late for that now, although I'd still sprinkle some dust at the base of the stem just to make yourself feel better. As soon as the eggs hatch, the larvae (look like small caterpillers) bore into the main stem and eat their way up the xylem tissue. Xylem tissue is the plant tissue that carries water from the ground up to the leaves. No xylem = no H2O --> wilting and ultimately death. Some sites will tell you that you can use a sharp knife to slit the stem and pull out the larvae. In my experience, this is not do-able. However, you can try this
remedy: cut off all of the vines that are completely wasted & dead. On those that remain, look for "nodes"-- branching points on the vine. You may see that closer to the main stem (where the
seed spring up) the vines' leaves are dead but further out they look o.k. What you want to do is pile up some good dirt-- I'd recommend just using composted manure rather than "potting soil" (you'll have to go buy this)-- on top of the nodes. Don't worry that you are burying leaves. Pile about 6" across and 2-3" deep. Keep this pile of manure well watered but not flooded. You are encouraging the plant to develop roots in this pile. These new roots will supply water to the part of the vine that is "upstream". As a precaution, sprinkle some dust at the base of the vine that you've covered with good dirt.
With respect to your drainage problem, you probably do not have enough organic matter in your soil. Organic matter acts as a "sponge" to soak up water and hold it in the area where the roots are
growing. Next year, work composted manure to the rows or hills to a depth of about 3-4". For now, especially with the tomatoes, you can "top-dress" with manure. (I am a huge fan of manure, especially if you don't have a compost pile of your own.) Top dressing means that you create a hill of manure (for tomatoes maybe 3-4" deep and 12" in diameter) around the base of the main stem. As with the cukes, the plants will start producing new roots in this hill. The water holding capacity of the manure + the new roots should kick start the uptake of water to the leaves and fruits. If the top ends of the vines ("branches") haven't set fruit yet, you may consider cutting them back so that the plant's water and energy is being diverted to the vines that do have fruit set.
One more thing-- if you are using regular (i.e., not for tomato) Miracle Grow, STOP!! All purpose MG has 20-20-20 N-P-K (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium content). First, 20% nitrogen is excessive, especially if your plants are water stressed. All that will happen is that the plant itself will grow & grow and become more & more stressed. (Nitrogen promotes 'green' growth.) If you must use MG, use the tomato formula which has a different ratio-- more P which is what the plant needs to develop fruit-- but probably still too high a content. Second, the NPK in MG are not in the chemical forms that promotes good soil, in fact, according to some, MG actually robs the soil of other nutrients that plants need.
Don't let these problems keep you from keeping on! Good luck!