A Gardeners Forum Forums Members History Forum Life 2005 Crochet 101

BOOKWORM!

This is a quick and cute project. Children enjoy playing with these and the Bookworm can also be used as a bookmark.

It is a good way to practice your skills and to use up scrap amounts of yarn. The brighter the color, the better!

Materials:

Scrap worsted weight yarn, any bright color.

a G or an H hook.

"Google" eyes

a dab of white glue.


CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS:

While you could make this any length you'd like, start out by trying it this length...

Ch 30, then 2 dc in fourth ch from hook, 3 dc in each stitch of chain.

You will see the chain start to spiral as you work the dc's into each chain. This is the body of BOOKWORM.

When you get to the end of your spiral, add one sc into the beginning of the chain to give the end a more finished appearance.

Next, crochet a chain as long as you would like it to be. This is the chain that gets placed inside the book. When it is a long as you want it, mark the last chain with either a safety pin or a short strand of extra yarn tied to it.

Now to work the tail...

Ch 20, 2 dc in fourth chain from hook, 3 dc in each chain back to your marked stitch. Fasten off. Weave in ends, trim any excess.

Glue "Google Eyes" to head.

If you are making this for a very young child, skip the Google Eyes and you can just use another color yarn to make either X eyes or French Knots. Also, be sure to keep the middle chain short enough so that the very young child can't get it caught around his neck.

Enjoy!

OPTION: You can sew a small jingle bell to the bottom if you'd like.

You can also use these spirals to make arms and legs for any number of other projects...

Merme

UNUSUAL AND VERY PRETTY POT HOLDER (FLAT)

This pot holder is very attractive worked in two colors. Color A is the background color and Color B is for making cords that get woven through the potholder later, making a nice stripe. Because the potholder is made of two separate squares, it is double thickness with a nice edging holding the front and back squares together.

Also your skeins of yarn must be divided into two separate balls so that you can use two strands worked together for each stitch.


MATERIALS:

SPORT WEIGHT YARN in the two contrasting colors of your choice.

The Main/Background color will be Color A.
The cord/edging color will be Color B.

Hook: Size H/5.00mm

TO MAKE THE CORDS:

Using two strands of Color B, ch 28, slip st in second ch from hook and in each ch to end. Finish off.

Make 8. Set aside.


TO MAKE THE FRONT: (You will be making TWO of these, which you can call Top & Bottom or Front & Back)

With Color A, using two strands of yarn, ch 26.
Row 1: (Right Side): dc in fourth ch from hook (skipped part of chain counts as first dc) and in next 2 chs *ch 1, skip next ch, dc in next 4 chs; repeat from * across. You will finish the row with 20 dc and 4 ch-1 spaces.

Rows 2 to 10: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), turn; dc in next 3 dc, (ch 1,dc in next 4 dc) across; do NOT finish off.


EDGING:

This is a bit unusual because although it IS made in 2 Rounds, you finish off at the end of Round 1. Then you add your cords to the face. THEN you do Round 2 of edging.

Round 1 is worked with Color A.
Round 2 is worked with Color B.

Rnd 1: Ch 1, turn; 2 sc in first dc, sc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp across to last dc, 3 sc in last dc; *working in end of rows, sc in first row, 2 sc in each of the next 8 rows, sc in last row**; working in free loops of beginning ch, 3 sc in first ch, sc in next 22 chs, 3 sc in next ch, repeat from * to ** once, sc in same st as first sc, join with slip st to first sc, finish off. You will have 92 sc when you are finished.


ADDING CORDS:
Select FOUR of the cords you have previously made. Hold your work WRONG SIDE facing, weave one cord vertically through first row of ch-1 sp on Body front. Keep ends of cord to the Wrong Side.

Add remaining 3 cords evenly spaced across front in the same vertical direction, using the ch-1 spaces.

Rnd 2: (Joining Round) With RIGHT side facing, join Color B with sc in same st as joining; 2 sc in same st + sc in next 4 sc *insert hook in next sc AND cord BEHIND sc, y/o and pull up a loop, y/o and draw through both loops on hook, sc in next 4 sc; repeat from* 3 times MORE, 3 sc in next sc, sc in each sc across to center sc of next 3-sc group ++, 3 sc in center sc, repeat from + to ++ once; join with slip st to first sc, finish off. You should finish with 100 sc.


TO MAKE THE BACK, work same as front.


JOINING:
With WRONG SIDES together, so that ends of cords are neatly hidden, have FRONT or TOP facing and work through BOTH layers. Join Color B with sl st in center sc of top right corner 3-sc group; slip st in each st around; join with slip st to first slip st, chain 10 for hanger. Hold ch to LEFT of hook, slip st in same st as joing and in each ch around. Finish Off.


I believe this updated version of an older pattern was created by Designer Roberta Maier. If so, we owe her many thanks!

Merme

Hi everyone ~

If anyone would like me to create a sample of something for you to SEE while I'm waiting to get my camera, please just send me a PM with your address AND what it is you would like a sample of, okay?


Just don't ask for an entire project, okie dokie? Like "gee, Merme, could you send me samples of six baby blankets and 4 sweaters in these sizes..."




Merme

Had to smile at that one. Hey I can share a bit of a sample of the 6-sided one you described. It is more than the couple of rows, but will give everyone an idea of what ti looks like. Gimme a minute to take a pic and get it all loaded.

Ok here you go.

I am making this using Red Heart Soft baby yarn, Bunny Print is the color and a size E hook.

VERY handsome, Triss, very, very nicely done!


Everyone, please notice about the pattern Triss is doing...

She is using the 6 sided format but as one entire, blanket-sized motif rather than making many small motifs to connect together.

Fascinating, isn't it?

The 6-sided Granny Square can be made with two rounds, six rounds, or 100 and more rounds. As long as you keep to the pattern, it doesn't matter how many rounds you add, the 6 sides will remain intact.

So you see? The applications are nearly limitless.

You could make two 6-sided Granny Squares of 8 or so rounds each and sew them together on five sides, add a handle and a cloth lining and have a beautiful purse for casual wear.

You could make a dozen or so 6-sided Granny Squares of perhaps 4 rounds and attach them together into a long scarf.

You could make a few hundred of them and attach them together into a blanket of any size.

Made in thread and using steel hooks rather than in yarn with aluminum hooks, this would be very delicate work indeed. How about a top or edging at the hemline for a nightie or a slip, sewn on applique style?

Thank you, Triss, for bringing this nice work of yours to our attention.

Merme

Awwwww You have me blushing. Thank you. I will continue to post pics every so often so you all can see my work in progress. Might inspire me to actually work on it!

This is the hat, mitten and scarf set I designed and worked up for Maxi last year for Christmas. Melcon6 was nice enough to photograph it for me the day she put up our Christmas tree.

As you can see, this is a very simple pattern which I just enhanced by additional colors and application of the star motifs. It all worked up very quickly and he was ohsodelighted on Christmas Morning! My kid loves items with a Patriotic Theme!

I'm also happy to report that because it was worked with colorfast 100% acrylic yarn, it stood up well to the wear 'n tear of a kid playing in wintertime Maine. I can only guess at the number of times it all went through the washer and how often those items were laid to dry on the radiator, but it was quite a few! And they are perfectly fine to have another go at it this coming winter. Made for just a few dollars, we certainly got our money's worth out of the investment thus far!

And again, allow me to point out that any such simple pattern can be enhanced to suit the person you are working it for. This cap, scarf and mittens could just as easily be worked in different colors with flowers, butterflies or even smilies as the appliques. So don't be afraid to experiment and let your imagination roam free!


Merme

That is so pretty. I bet he did like them.

One additional note concerning the hat,scarf and mitten set.

Please notice that although the "field" of stars for the scarf worked in blue was worked so the rows ran vertically, the stripes for the flag body were worked horizontally.

This is an unexpected configuration of the rows which I did purposefully for two reasons.

1) If I had worked the stripes in the same orientation as the field, I would have had to change colors every four or five stitches.

That is of course easy enough to do as when the color changes come so close together, you just carry the unused yarn across the back to the next spot you need it.

But I thought about reason

2) I wanted the scarf to have a "finished" appearance on BOTH sides, so that it would look good any way he wrapped it around his neck or over his shoulder.

So in this instance, I was willing to forego the matching orientation of rows between the two pieces in order to achieve the finished look of the project that I wanted.

Merme

You had me going back thinking I missed a pattern somewhere along the way, but nope, there is not a pattern in here for that set. So you have one by chance or is that an off the top of my head?

BTW, I am putting all of this into a word document for myself so I can refer back to it often.

TRADITIONAL "WATCH CAP" (Version I)


S/M (M/L)
Finished cap measures 12.5 or (13)inches long and 21.5 or (22.5)inches around.

MATERIALS

Chunky Yarn, 2 skeinss in color of your choice.

Hooks Sizes K/6.5mm and I/5.5mm crochet hook or sizes to obtain gauge

Large-eyed, blunt needle

GAUGE
10 sts + 11 rows = 4 in. (10 cm) in single crochet with larger hook. BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE.

This variation of the traditional "Watch Cap" is interesting because the pattern BEGINS directly above the ribbing!

When the cap is completely made, including shaping for the crown, you finish off. Weave ends. And THEN begin the ribbing at the bottom.

This Watch Cap works up very quickly and easily.

STITCH EXPLANATIONS

"Sc2tog" means "Single Crochet Two Stitches Together" is a typical way of DECREASING the size of the pattern you are working on. It is done like this:

Draw up a loop in each of next 2 sts, y/o and draw through all 3 loops on hook.


"FPDC" means "Front Post Double Croshet" which means you will be working from the FRONT to the BACK to the FRONT again -- AROUND -- the POST of the stitch in the previous row. Remember: the POST is the vertical part of any stitch. The FPDC is done like this:

Y/O, insert hook from front to back then to front, going around the dc post, draw up a loop, (Y/O and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice. DO NOT THEN ALSO WORK IN THE HORIZONTAL PART OF THE STITCH! Just ignore it and follow the directions as to what to do with the NEXT stitch.


"BPDC" means "Back Post Double Crochet". In this stitch you will be working from the BACK to the FRONT to the BACK again - AROUND - the POST of the stitch in the previous row. It is done in exactly the opposite direction of the FPDC. Work it like this:

Y/O, insert hook from back to front then to back, going around the dc post, draw up a loop, (Y/O and draw through 2 loops on hook) twice. Here too, you ignore the hortizontal part of the stitch in the row below. Just skip it and follow the directions for the NEXT stitch.

It is this working back and forth with FPDC and BPDC that allows you to create the ribbing texture with crochet that is normally seen with knitted patterns. Bear in mind that there are differences in the appearance between the two, however. The crochet version is not a direct imitation of the knitted kind WHEN WORKED IN THIS MANNER.

SIZES:
The first set of stitch numbers refer to sizes Small and Medium S/M. The second set of numbers refers to size Medium and Large M/L. When working with a pattern that gives instructions in mulitiple sizes, it is a good idea to mark your copy of the pattern with a highlighter each place the variations are given so you are less likely to use the incorrect one for the size option you've selected.

Ok, THE INSTRUCTIONS

Remember that you are starting at the bottom edge and working the hat upwards.

Ch 55 for S/M or (57) for M/L.

Foundation Row will be your RIGHT SIDE (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across - 54 stitches for S/M and (56)stitches for M/L; turn.

COUNT YOUR STITCHES AT THIS POINT! If you do not have either 54 or 56, figure out why and try again. Please do NOT try to "fudge it" and say "Well, I have 55, that's close enough!" The stitch count is very important in this pattern, so double check yours now.


For Body Pattern: Ch 1, sc in each sc across; turn.

Now you will continue to work in Body Pattern until the piece is approximately 5.5" (S/M) or 6" for (M/L). Be sure to end with a Wrong Side Row. If you are at 5.5" or 6" and are on a Right Side Row, go ahead and do one more.

NOW TO SHAPE THE CROWN:

Remember you will be DECREASING the number of stitches as you go in order for the piece to narrow to fit the top of the head.

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in first 2 (3) sc; * sc2tog, sc in each of next 4 sc; rep from * across ending sc2tog, sc in last 2 (3) sc. At the end of this row you should have either 45 stitches for (S/M) or (47) stitches for M/L. Turn.

Row 2 and EACH FOLLOWING WRONG SIDE ROW Ch 1, sc in each sc across; turn. You see? On the WRONG SIDE ROWS you do NOT DECREASE.

Row 3 Ch 1, sc in first 2 (3) sc; * sc2tog, sc in each of next 3 sc; rep from * across ending sc2tog, sc in 1 (2) sc. At the end of this decrease row you should have 36 stitches for (S/M) or (38) stitches for M/L; turn.

Row 4: Repeat Row 2.

Row 5 Ch 1, sc in first 2 (3) sc; * sc2tog, sc in each of next 2 sc; rep from * across ending sc2tog, sc in 0 (1) sc. At the end of this decrease row you should have 27 stitches for S/M and (29) stitches for M/L; turn.

Row 6: Repeat Row 2.

Row 7 Ch 1, (sc2tog) across ending sc in last sc. At the end of this DECREASE row, you should have 14 stitches for S/M and (15) stitches for M/L; turn.

Row 8: Repeat Row 2.

Leaving a tail measuring approximately 18?, fasten off.

Now thread the tail you have left into a yarn needle and pass it back through the back loops of the remaining 14 (15) sts. When all the stitches have been threaded, you pull up tightly to close the opening.

Then, using the remaining tail, join sides by sewing, making a back seam. Secure yarn by weaving. Fasten off.

Now you are ready for the RIBBING

With the RIGHT SIDE facing and SMALLER HOOK, join yarn with a slip st in lower edge.

JOINING ROW: Ch 3 (counts as dc), working along unused loops of Foundation, work 52 for S/M or (54)for M/L MORE dc around. At end, skip last ch, join with a slip st in 3rd ch of beginning ch-3. At the end of this joining row you should have 53 stitches for S/M and(55) stitches for M/L; turn.

Rnd 1 Ch 2, FPDC over next dc; (BPDC over next 2 dc, FPDC over next 2 dc) around, ending BPDC over next 2 dc, FPDC over last dc; join with a slip st in 2nd ch of beginning ch-2.

Rnd 2 Ch 2, FPDC over FPDC; (BPDC over next 2 BPDC, FPDC over next 2 FPDC) around ending BPDC over next 2 BPDC, FPDC over last FPDC; join with a slip st in 2nd ch of beginning ch-2.

Repeat Rnd 2 until ribbing measures approximately 4.5" from beginning. Fasten off. Turn up ribbing to form cuff.


Ok so that is the standard pattern which is very easy to do, right?

But think: Do you HAVE to do it all in one color? What about in a varigated yarn for the cap and a matching solid for the ribbing? How about in horizontal stripes, changing colors every three or four rows? Or a solid color for the cap and stripes for the ribbing, alternating colors round by round?

How about adding something you've crocheted as an applique either at the crown to conceal the gathering or along the side? Or maybe even making this in Team Colors and adding an authentic Team Emblem applique?

Merme

TRADITIONAL "WATCH CAP" (Version II)

This is an extraordinarily simple pattern as it requires no shaping for the crown of the head. It also makes up quickly using the heavier, fluffy 'homespun' yarns so readily available, but it can also be done with worsted weight and a smaller hook...just adjust for size.

This hat is another one that can be made all in one color or in stripes or any other way you can think of. Christmas of 2004 I made a batch of these for an entire family in coordinating colors so that they could all easily find one another on the sledding hills. The possibilities are up to your imagination!


MATERIALS:

Fluffy style yarn, 1 skein
Aluminum Hook, Size K
Blunt needle with large eye

INSTRUCTIONS:

GAUGE: 11 stitches = 4" in dc TAKE A MOMENT AND CHECK YOUR GAUGE!


Ch 58
Row 1: dc in 4th ch from hook (skipped chs count as dc), then dc in every ch across. You should finish this row with 55 dc. Ch 1, turn.
Row 2: Ch 3, dc in 2nd ch from hook (ch 3 counts as dc), then dc in every ch across. You should finish this row with 55 dc. Ch 1, turn.

TAKE A MOMENT AND COUNT YOUR STITCHES! If you have 55 dc, then continue....

Repeat Row 2 until piece measures 9". Fasten off. Thread a length of yarn into blunt needle and sew sides together into a tidy seam. Clip yarn ends and weave in.

Now, here is the cool closure for this cap:

Fold the tube in half, putting the sewn seam in the middle of the back. Using your threaded needle, stitch two or three stitches close together right in the middle of the cap at the top edge, stitching the front to the back of the cap.

Without cutting the yarn, turn the hat so that one side is facing. Bring the centers of the sides together so that they meet in the middle where you stitched the front and back together. Now take a few more stitches in that same spot, joining the sides right in the center also.

Clip yarn. Weave in ends. Trim.

You will notice that with this closure there are four small openings in the top of the cap. When you flip the cap inside out, those openings get folded into the way the cap lays on the head. It does not leave bare spots up there.

Once you've reversed the cap so Right Side is facing, fold up the brim to the level of your choice.


Merme

TWO DECORATIVE MOTIFS FOR YOU TO TRY:


THE STAR:

Ch 3, slip stitch to form a ring
Round 1: ch 1, 5 sc in ring, slip stitch to beg ch
Round 2: ch 1, work 3 sc in each sc, slip stitch to beg chain. You should finish this round with 15 sc.
Round 3: *sc in fist sc, ch 5, slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in last ch, skip 2 sc, repeat from * around, end with slip stitch to the first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.


THE ROSETTE

This traditional flower motif has a million or so variations, I'm sure. This is the most basic one for you to try.

Gauge is not important in this pattern, just realize the size of the motif will be determined by the weight of the yarn and the hook you use. So a "Fun Fur" with a K hook will give you a MUCH bigger Rosette than a Sportweight yarn with an E hook will.

Rosette motifs have a multiplicity of uses. They can be attached to the brim of a hat. They can be worn as a sweater pin. You can glue them to a barette and wear in the hair. Made of satiny cords they can be used to decorate curtain tie backs. Worked in Crochet Cotton rather than yarn, using a shorter starting chain, they are delicate enough to add to a picture frame or the yoke of a nightgown.

This Rosette uses two common stitches:

THE V-STITCH which is (dc, ch 1, dc) IN ONE CHAIN OR SPACE OR LOOP.

THE SHELL STITCH (variation) which is 6 dc in one space.


INSTRUCTIONS ARE IN THREE SIZES:

ch 17, (35), [53]

Row 1: dc in 6th ch from hook, *ch 1, skip 1 ch, (dc, ch 1, dc) IN NEXT CHAIN. {V-Stitch made!] Repeat from * across to end of chain. At the end you will have 6, (16) or [25] V-Stitches. Turn.
Row 2: ch 3 (counts as dc), 5 dc in first ch-1 space, *sc in next ch-1 space, 6 dc in next ch-1 space (Shell Stitch made!). Repeat from * around, ending 6 dc in last ch-1 space. At the end you will have 6, (16) or [25] shells.


OPTIONAL ADDITION OF A SECOND COLOR:

If you would like to trim out your Rosette in a second color, then do this...

In the final dc of Round 2, drop your main color and pick up your second color so that the bottom half of the dc is in the main color and the top half is in the second. Next, ch 1, turn. Sc in each stitch across. Fasten off, weave in ends.


FINISHING THE ROSETTE:

Leave a long tail for sewing, cut yarn. Thread a blunt nose needle with a large eye. Tightly begin to roll the end into a rose bud shape. Using the threaded needle, take a few stitches from underneath to secure this bud in place. Now, carefully continue to roll the piece, spreading it wider as you go, stitching from the underside. When the Rosette is complete, fasten off, cut remaining yarn and weave in ends.


Merme

Here are a few useful photos I thought you might appreciate. More will be forthcoming soon.


This is the correct position for holding the yarn in the left hand...




This is how to begin your slip knot...




And here is the final stage of the slip knot...




Step One for making a chain...





Step Two for the chain....





Finished Chain...




I hope these are helpful!

Merme

Because Thread Crochet is my personal favorite, I thought I would also show you a few things about it.


Regular yarns look like this...




The Crochet Cotton for Threadwork looks like this and comes in a variety of thicknesses and colors...




Thread Crochet is often used for Holiday Decorations such as these...









Or sweet baby items like this...




Merme

You often see many elaborate and delicate bookmarks made of Thread Crochet...











And just plain lovely items such as this Pineapple and Fans tablecloth...




Merme

Another Crochet Technique everyone should know about is Filet.

Worked in squares using varying patterns of open and closed blocks referred to as "mesh", filet can be done in either yarn or thread, although you most often see it in thread.

Many Cross Stitch patterns that do not rely on color changes for their design can be worked in Filet Crochet and vice versa.


Here is a sample:




Merme

Although I've been making Thread Crochet Angels for more than 30 years, I have very few photos to show as the majority of them were made as gifts.

However, here are a few photos for now and I'll be able to show photos of the ones I am making for this Christmas when I get them finished.

You should know that free-standing Angels or shaped items made with Thread Crochet (such as baskets) always need to be stiffened.

Traditionally, the stiffener was made out of boiled water and sugar. Now many commercial stiffeners are widely available either for dipping or spray application. It is also possible to use simple white glue diluted with water.

The drying process can be tedious, depending on how it must be accomplished.

For flat items such as snowflakes and angel wings, you must cover a piece of corrugated cardboard with wax paper. Soak the items in the stiffener of your choice, drain them a bit but NEVER wring them out. Then, working with stainless steel straight pins, you carefully pin the item to the cardboard, extending it to it's proper shape. A snowflake with elaborate detail and picots can take 50 to 100 pins.

When the item is finally dry, usually by the next morning, you simply remove the pins and pull it away from the wax paper. It will then keep its shape for years barring any unfortunate accident.

Although Thread Crochet is done with Cotton, it IS washable. When the time comes to launder the item, simply wash it as you would any fine garment and allow it to air dry -- never place it in a dryer. You can then put it aside until you are ready to stiffen it again, or procede with the stiffening.

Items such as Angels, Bells and Baskets can be more difficult because you need to find things to use as a mold to fill the areas that need extended. Sometimes a styrofoam cone will do for under an Angels skirt, or a plastic bowl will fit adequately into a basket. Other times you simply must cram the item with balled up plastic wrap or bubble wrap.

Either way, it is a good idea to check regularly on the item during the drying process just to make sure nothing is shifting out of place. It is really frustrating to wake up to an Angel whose skirt has dried so crookedly she won't stand! My best advice is to do your stiffening projects early in the morning so you have plenty of time to check on them, although I must admit to many late night dip 'n drips and pins in the mad dash to Christmas. But it is better to avoid that whenever possible!




This is the basic Angel I made for our priest last year although for his I put a much more elaborate halo on her.




These are the Angels I made for a friend with young children. Although these are made of fine yarn and are not Thread Crochet, I thought you'd enjoy seeing them. These Angels are made of Granny Squares and are shaped with wires internally. I thought that was a good option in case the little boy in the house overenthusiastically squeezed the Angel. Mom could reshape her without washing and stiffening!



Flying Angels are always a fun pose.





I always thought this Angel, whose traditional name is Lacy Angel, was particularly handsome because of her hankerchief hem.


Merme

Oh, and just so there is no misunderstanding, the above photos are NOT of my own work. They are stock photos of projects I have completed but are not specifically of my items. As I mentioned before, most of my things have been given as gifts already.

However, I'm hoping that my friend with the digital camera will stop by in the next week and take pictures of the items I have on hand to show you.

For Thread Crochet...
I have an exquisite Vintage yoke that is a reproduction of a 1917 pattern. There is a very lovely Vintage Filet crochet piece for Easter from a 1926 pattern. There is a really neat (but rather large) doily that takes up nearly my entire dining room table -- the earliest date I could find on that was 1946. Tonight I just completed work on a traditional Julianne Cap and tomorrow I plan to add the beadwork to it. Plus numerous small items such as the bookmarks and snowflakes and angels I'm preparing as gifts for the coming Holiday Season.

For yarn projects...
I am hoping to show you a lovely muff and scarf set I made last winter; several unusual scarf and beret style hat sets; one of my "famous" hooded scarves; a black shrug with a rather different pinwheel motif and a matching muff with gold sewing thred crocheted for a decorative feature and gold beadwork...

So hang on, and I hope to get these photos out for you as soon as possible!

Merme

Hi everyone ~

Recently, a forum member asked me if I sell my work or accept payment for it? It was a kind question, generously meant. I think my answer bears repeating here, so now you all can know.

No, I never sell my work. Ever.

Everything I make is either for myself, my home, or is given as gifts.

However, I DO certainly accept donations of MATIERALS only... yarns, threads, hooks in unusual sizes, knitting needles, bags of fiberfill to stuff toys or whathaveyou. This allows me to continue giving to the next people on my lists.

In this manner, I have been able to make countless sweaters for the Guideposts Sweaters For Children Project, Caps for Cancer patients, afghans, hats and mitten sets for ghetto outreach programs, toys for needy children, and mountains of bazarre items for non-profit organizations to sell.

And I never care WHAT KIND of yarn, or crochet thread, or what color or how much of it is involved. I can use all of it for one project or another, and believe me, the supplies do get eaten up remarkably fast! An overflowing yarn basket one week is out the door in short order worked into stuff making folks happy or to keep them warm in tough conditions.

Plus, I can't even think about selling the difficult thread crochet projects I give away. For instance, if I spend 50 hours creating something truly lovely, there is no way I could ever tag it with a fair price for my time, right?

If my time is worth even minimum wage, well multiply that by 50 then add in the cost of the supplies, and few people could either afford or even WANT to pay that much for a pretty decoration!

Not to mention, all the intense feelings and thoughts that go into every single stitch. The sometimes heartbreaking effort it takes to complete a complex pattern that sometimes needs torn out and restitched I invest for love of the recipient of the gift. I could not invest that much care into something for money. No amount of money offered to me would compel me to sit up at 3 am, determined on getting that thing right! But for my friends, my family, a little kid cold in some far away place, you betcha, I'll sit up working until my hands are aching. THEY are worth it!





Merme

A WORD ABOUT COLLECTING PATTERNS


Almost every yarn department offers free leaflets of patterns as an incentive to purchase the specified yarns. Even if you think you may not (or even probably not) do that particular project, it is a good idea to collect the leaflets anyway.

A careful reading of the instructions may very well introduce you to a new stitch or a new technique you haven't worked with before. Also, working with such patterns can give you a better understanding of how things are constructed so you can venture on your own.

Almost all the labels around skeins of yarn have patterns printed on the inside, so be careful how you remove the label to not damage the printing. These too can be a very useful resource.

And of course, there are literally millions of free patterns available on-line. The only thing required is PATIENCE as you carefully sort through the abundance of choices.

Lyon Brand Yarn, as well as Coat's & Clark, both yarn companies, have free web sites. Lyon Brand sends out a regular email newsletter free of charge.

Not every pattern is worth your effort; not all "designers" are created equal. Sometimes, the free patterns will be the tacky items you wouldn't want to waste your time on, and the really good stuff will be available only by sale.

That being said, I would like to mention two modern designers who are rather worthy of your notice.

The great Sandi Marshall, designer and preservationist, has hundreds of free patterns as well as stitch instructions available on-line. I have learned SO MUCH from this talented woman's work... advancing not only my skills as a crocheter but also broadening my pattern comfort zone.

Another really gifted designer is Prisilla Hewitt and many of her patterns are also available free on-line.

I particularly enjoy encountering Prisilla's work because she seems to offer a nice selection to please just about anyone... yarn projects, thread projects, even covered rope projects for an assortment of skill levels.

Many times I have started one of Prisilla's patterns and after a couple of rows or rounds I have thought "Is this is misprint or a typo? How is THIS going to work? It doesn't look right!"

Yet I turn the corner or begin the next round and suddenly it ALL becomes apparant and I'm thinking "Oh, clever woman, Prisilla, very clever woman indeed!" So often her patterns are quite simple but give truly remarkable results.

Another option to keep in mind is joining the Crochet Guild of America for a nominal fee. Here you will find many resources, including local clubs with meetings you can attend or larger events open to the public.

Once you begin collecting patterns in earnest, you will be surprised at how rapidly they accumulate. And it is always fun to share collections with your friends, each person looking over samples of work completed or through the files. Many new ideas can be gained in this way.


Merme

Hi all - if you look down at the freebie forum, I posted a link for a free ball of disco yarn. It looks like a fussy type of yarn for beginners, but hey - it's free and there might be something you'd like to make with it?

Hi everyone ~

Finally, I have a few more photos to show you. Hopefully, I'll be able to post more soon...

This is a Vintage Yoke pattern from 1917 I worked in Size 20 thread with a Size 10 steel hook. Although it was meant to be the top for a nightgown or slip, I choose to wear it as a collar.




This is a traditional Julianne Cap with both crocheted beadwork around the lower edge as well as hand sewn beads throughout the body.


Side View


Back View


This easy Julianne Cap was worked with TWO strands of Size 10 thread held together and an Size E aluminum hook.

And yes, that is my son doing the modelling for you all!

Merme

This is a Vintage Filet Crochet pattern from 1926. Titled "Three Crosses On A Hillside", I made it for our priest as his Easter Gift, 2005. It is worked with Size 10 thread using a Size 7 Steel hook. This rendition worked out to be 14 inches wide by 17 inches tall.





Merme