This kind of answers my own question. I hope this can help others too:
For a basic outline on how to start
seeds, there are several things that must be present to ensure success: proper containers, proper
growing media, proper moisture, proper light, proper temperature, good air circulation. A big must is cleanliness. Containers must be clean and free of fungus spores, planting medium must be sterile, etc. The idea is to prevent disease formation in young
seedlings, particularly damping off.
I generally use peat pots filled with moistened sterile soilless mix or Jiffy7's. I also use cell packs or 2x2 plastic starting pots. If I use containers that have been used previously, I clean them and then dip them in a solution of bleach and water, 1-2 Tbsp of household bleach to the gallon. Dip the scrubbed containers in this solution to kill any spores, then let dry thoroughly.
Start planning what you want to grow and purchase the
seeds as early as possible. Some
seeds require extensive time indoors for germination and
growing. Be sure to refer to a
seed-starting chart for length of time and the best method for germination and
growing on indoors. Be aware that some
seeds require pre-chilling, or stratification. Some
seeds require nicking the surface, scarification, or benefit by soaking for a while before sowing. Some require bottom heat, and some require total darkness. Read up before purchasing so you will be prepared on how to properly start your chosen plants. If you are in a garden center, read the backs of the
seed packet labels for the proper method and time to start
seeds.
Find out what your average last frost date is. If a given variety of
seed needs to be started 10 to 12 weeks before the last frost date, count back that time to when you can safely plant the
seeds. For example, if April 30 is your last average frost date, then from about February 12 to 19 would be about right for something requiring 10 to 12 weeks for starting indoors.
Now for planting mixes or medium: Forget about sterilizing soil in the oven. It is messy, not the best medium for indoor
seed starting, and stinks to high heaven while sterilizing! Be sure to use a good, sterile
seed starting mix. I used to blend my own with milled spahgnum moss, perlite, vermiculite, and whatever else. Now, I am just as content to let others blend a good mix, and I am willing to pay the price. Most soilless mixes are relatively inexpensive, so why bother with some magic blend? My time is precious, as I am sure yours is, too. Follow the directions on the bag for moistening the medium, and fill your containers, as directed.
The best "tool" for starting some of the larger
seeds is a pencil. Pop the point into the medium the required depth, and add the
seed. Cover with sifted medium and spritz the top to moisten, not douse! For finer
seed, adding a little sand to the
seed packet will help to evenly distribute the
seeds when planting. Press dustlike
seeds onto the moistened surface. Place your containers on trays, and add saran wrap or some other plastic wrap over the top of the containers and trays to seal in the moisture. Now, bottom heat is very helpful to absolutely necessary in order for most
seed to germinate. You can supply bottom heat with a heating mat, or place trays of planted pots on a water heater or my favorite, on top of the refrigerator. Keep your plantings away from cold windowsills or drafty areas. If total darkness is required, then place newspaper on top of the plastic-covered containers, or place them into a dark trash bag before placing on top of the refrigerator. Check for signs of germination. When most of the
seeds have sprouted and are showing their first set of leaves, or
seed leaves, remove the plastic cover. Keep them moist, not soggy. Now is the time to add supplemental lighting.
Lighting is crucial. If you do not have a
greenhouse or extremely bright southern exposure, you will need supplemental lighting. There are many different lights that can be used. Flourescent lights and grow lights that offer full spectrum lighting are the best choices. Forget standard incandescent light bulbs. They do not supply the lighting required for strong plant formation and they give off too much heat. You can purchase pre-wired light stands or rig your own system up. Just be sure the lighting is within a few inches, not feet, of the tops of your
seedlings. As your plants continue continue to grow, the lights can be raised up a bit. Plants should be within two to three inches of the light source, but not touching. I have an old baker's rack system that I have used for many years. I used thin plywood panels, screwed in cup hooks, and added chains to suspend the attached lights so I could raise and lower them as needed over the
seedlings. It is inexpensive and has served a good purpose for many years. I have used both grow lights and fluorescent lighting with this system with good success. When I use fluorescent, I combine one warm light with one cool light tube for the proper light spectrum. Also, I change my light tubes every year to every other year. After a while, the light spectrum does decline, although it might not be apparent to the naked eye. Aim for about twelve hours of supplemental lighting per day. If you do choose to use a bright windowsill, keep an eye out for cold drafts and spindly growth. Also, you will need to rotate your plants every day to keep them
growing straight, as they will tend to bend towards the light source from your windows.
Once
seedlings start to develop true leaves, thinning becomes an issue. If
seedlings are not properly thinned, they are more susceptible to diseases such as damping off and will be competing with each other. Snip the excess
seedlings with a pair of scissors so the remaining
seedlings will not be disturbed.
Water from the bottom of your pots, and check the moisture levels every day. Warm winter homes means dry air.
seedlings will become stressed if they are allowed to dry out excessively. While they do not require the constant moisture level as starting
seeds do,
seedlings do require even, not soggy moisture.
Once the
seedlings are up and running, so to speak, they will require food. Feed a half-strength solution of sea kelp, fish emulsion, or complete organic fertilizer. Add by bottom watering. As the plants develop, many will appreciate a foliar feeding as well.You may need to transplant your
seedlings several times. If they become pot-bound or overly big for their containers, they will begin to suffer and weaken, so this is an essential step. Transplant them into larger containers and use more of the soilless medium. You may need to transplant your
seedlings several times. If they become pot-bound or too big for their containers, they will begin to suffer and weaken, so this is an essential step. Transplant them into larger containers and use more of the soilless medium.
Gradually harden off your plants before finally planting them outdoors. Start by placing them in a protected and shady spot after the weather has started to moderate. Keep them out for about two hours at first, then gradually increase the amount of time they are spending outdoors. Gradually increase their exposure to natural sunlight after they are up to about eight hours a day in a protected spot. Bring them indoors if the weather threatens to turn frosty or very cold at night. Transplant them on a cloudy, windless day.